Udupi, located on the coast of Karnataka, is well-known for its temples and delectable cuisine. The Sri Krishna Mutt is located in the heart of town. The temple, which was founded in the 13th century by Shri Madhavacharya, is surrounded by eight Mutts and is visited by pilgrims all year. Two other ancient Udupi Shiva temples that often go unnoticed are located on the premises of the same temple.

They are the Anantheshwara and Chandramoulishwara Shaivite temples. Even before the Shri Krishna Mutt was established, the presence of these temples made Udupi a holy land. It is customary to pay them a visit before proceeding to the Shri Krishna temple.

Udupi Shiva Temples

The Temple of Chandramoulishwara
The temples’ history is intertwined with the name Udupi. The name “Udupi” is derived from the Sanskrit term “Udupa”. This literally translates to “Lord of the Stars,” referring to the Moon. According to popular legend, the moon married Daksh Prajapati’s 27 daughters (representing the 27 constellations). While the moon was enjoying Rohini’s company, he ended up ignoring the other 26 wives. Daksh Prajapati cursed the moon, saying that his radiance would fade and he would perish in total obscurity. To atone for this curse, the moon began penance and austerities for Shiva Mahadev.

Shiva was pleased and gave the moon the ability to wax and wane rather than completely disappear. The land where the moon is said to have performed penance is now known as Udupi, and the nearby lake became the Chandrapushkarni. As a result, Shiva is given the title Chandramoulishwara.

The temple compound
The current Chandramoulishwara temple dates from the eighth century CE. The temple is constructed in the traditional Udupi temple style. It has a sloping roof and a cool granite stone floor. This temple is located directly across the street from the Shri Krishna Mutt and shares a wall with the popular eatery Mitra Samaj.

The Nandi here is tilted, and one must tilt their head to see the Shiva ling. This temple is located about 6 feet below ground level, and one must descend a few steps to enter. Despite its elevation, this temple has never been flooded.

This Sphathik (quartz) Lingam is said to change colour three times during the day: black in the morning, blue at noon, and white at night. This lingam is encased in a Mukha (face mask). Even today, before ascending the Paryaya throne, the Paryaya Swamiji visits Chandramouleeshwara temple and then proceeds to receive the darshan of Lord Anantheshwara and Sri Krishna.

The Temple of Anantheshwara
Odipu is the Tullu word for Udupi. This comes from the Sanskrit term “Rajatapithapura” which means, “The city of the silver pedestal”. The name is derived from the ancient silver pedestal on which the Ananteshwara lingam is enshrined. King Ramabhoja, who ruled over this Parasurama-Kshetra, decided to perform Ashwamedha yajna, a ceremony in which the current King is declared to be the greatest of the land.

The yajna Bhoomi was located on the Chandramoulishwara temple’s western side. A snake became entangled in the ploughshare while ploughing the land for the yajna and was instantly killed. The King prayed day and night to atone for Sarpahatya’s sin of killing a snake. Shiva Mahadev praised his penance and instructed him to construct a silver pedestal and a lingam on the yajna Bhoomi.

This temple has since been renamed the Ananteshwara temple. As Tullunadu’s oldest temple, this shrine serves as the spiritual centre for the Shivalli Brahmin community. It is also said that Madhavacharya’s parents prayed to the Ananteshwara deity for 12 years in order to have a child.

The temple compound

The Ananteshwara temple was built in the second century CE. It is constructed by fusing granite slabs with limestone plaster. The temple is notable for its deity, Shiva, who is accompanied by Sheshnaag. As a result, it is revered by both Vaishnavites and Shaivites.

The temple complex of Anantheshwara

The Garbhagriha, also known as the Sanctum Sanctorum, is divided into two sections. One is visible to devotees, while the other is concealed behind the Moolasthana or Altar. On the entry gate, there are also Shankha and Chakra markings. The 40-foot-tall Deepasthamba outside the temple is a one-of-a-kind landmark. As an offering, devotees light this lamp with oil.

The deities of Ganapathi and Parvathi can be seen while circumambulating the temple. Two small but powerful deities, Sheshnaag and Aiyappa Swami, stand in one corner of the temple. The Sheshnag is made entirely of gold.

Mahashivaratri Celebrations at Udupi Shiva Temples
In both temples, a special Rudrabhishekam and Bhilvapatra Archana (the most auspicious way of worshipping Lord Shiva is by performing a ceremony with Bilva leaves) are performed. Instead of fasting on Shivaratri, the Madhavas (the brahmin community that follows Madhavacharya’s teachings and worships Vishnu) feast. They have no reservations about worshipping Shiva. While performing various pujas, they meditate on the Sivapanchakshara mantra and offer upcharas (offerings and services made to a deity as part of worship).

During the festive season, both temples hold a Rathotsava every night. On the final day of Mahashivaratri, a special Rathotsava is held in honour of Ananteshwara. I went to the temple the day after Shivaratri, and it was peaceful. There were few people in the temple, and I felt a strong positive energy surround me.

Like the Shiva Temples of Udupi, four ancient Shiva temples guard the Krishna city of Mathura. These temples are thought to be older than Krishna’s time.

Cuisine and Culture
Udupi is a cultural melting pot of three distinct groups: Kannadigas, Tuluvas, and Konkanis. It is an essential component of Tulunadu as well as the ancient Parshurama kshetra. As a result, the cuisine is a stunning fusion of spices and flavours from all three cultures.

Udupi is also well-known for its ice cream. In Hotel Diana, the well-known “Gudbud” ice cream was invented. Every restaurant in town offers a variety of ice cream sundaes made with the popular Ideal ice creams. They are cooling in the heat and humidity. Since Udupi has long catered to pilgrims, there are restaurants that serve quality North Indian cuisine as well.

When is the best time to visit Udupi’s Shiva temples?

The months of September to February are ideal for visiting Udupi. The heat and humidity can be unbearable in the summer. From June to September, there is a lot of rain. Although the rains can make travel difficult, the monsoon season brings out the lush greenery in and around Udupi. Because Monday is a special day for Shiva, the temples are often crowded.

Transportation and lodging

The nearest airport is in Mangalore, which is 55 kilometres from Udupi. Fly to Mangalore and then take a taxi to Udupi.

If you enjoy train rides, I recommend the Karwar express as well as the Vistadome from Bangalore. This 8-hour train ride will provide you with breathtaking views of the Western Ghats. There are also bus services from Bangalore, Mumbai, Pune, and Mangalore.

Because Udupi has long been a pilgrimage destination, there is no shortage of lodging. You can find guesthouses, Dharamshalas, hotels, and homestays based on your budget. There is a wide selection of delectable vegetarian cuisine.

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